Helix DSP.3 help thread

I have, on multiple occasions now, found my Helix wifi adapter still up and running long after the car and other equipment has shut off. I haven't yet figured out the circumstances that cause this to happen yet (but it's always after loading a new tune and/or "messing" with some settings). Has anyone else had this happen?

So just a quick update on this. It happened to me again today (Helix wifi module stayed powered up and accepting connections even after the car was turned off (and my amps and the Helix DSP.3 itself was also powered off).

After it happened, I think I found what causes it. It seems that if you turn off your laptop (actually, put it into sleep mode by closing the lid) without exiting the Helix software first, then the Helix wifi module stays powered up and active - at least in some cases. I haven't tried recreating the issue yet, but I started the car, reconnected to the Helix wifi adapter with my laptop again and restarted the Helix sofrware - but this time, I exited the Helix software before closing my laptop (which is what I normally do). As soon as I did that and got out of my car and checked the Helix wifi module after doing this, the Helix wifi module shut down properly.

So it sure does *seem* that closing your laptop while the Helix software is still running and connected to the Helix wifi module, causes the Helix wifi module to stay "active" - even after the car is turned off and all other audio equipment shuts down normally. At least in some cases... I'll have to do a little more testing.
 
Hi. I was hoping you could help me out. I am planning on getting a ZAPCO Dsp, but the ipod is still my main method of listening to music.

Do you know if I could hook up the ipod to the optical inlet ( I use a device that extracts the ipod info and sends it digitally to my home DAC via optical. It would be great if I could do the same with one of these units.)

Also, If I send an analog ipod signal (instead of digital) to the DSPs AUX in, does this signal get processed by the Zapco DSP? It sounds like a stupid question, but Zapco is outfitted with ADC's as well as DAC's, so I thought maybe it was capable of processing an analog signal.

I wanted to use my own DAC in the car and compare it to the Zapcos DAC hardware side by side. Thanks.
 
Hi. I was hoping you could help me out. I am planning on getting a ZAPCO Dsp, but the ipod is still my main method of listening to music.

Do you know if I could hook up the ipod to the optical inlet ( I use a device that extracts the ipod info and sends it digitally to my home DAC via optical. It would be great if I could do the same with one of these units.)

Also, If I send an analog ipod signal (instead of digital) to the DSPs AUX in, does this signal get processed by the Zapco DSP? It sounds like a stupid question, but Zapco is outfitted with ADC's as well as DAC's, so I thought maybe it was capable of processing an analog signal.

I wanted to use my own DAC in the car and compare it to the Zapcos DAC hardware side by side. Thanks.
 
So, I posted a few questions on the other forum. I know many of you visit each. Since this pertains to the Helix dsp.3, I thought I would post it here.

I have been unable to get my tune correct. Most of my issues involve the use of the Helix dsp. I decided to try the autoEQ function today. I ran it a total of 4 times. Each time the results were similar to the previous. Here is what it did to my mids. I don't need to tell you how bad they sound afterwards. And yes, I entered the settings correctly before running autoEQ.



View attachment 13771
 
Not 100% sure what midbass is what, but I am guessing red is left and green is right (IIRC which one usually has the ~400hz cancellation issues due to wavelength and distance to center console). This does seem bigger than what I expect though..... What vehicle?


What do the speakers RTA look like without any EQ?
 
Yeah sorry, you are correct. red/L, green/R

19" Honda Accord. Mids lower front of doors, tweets in the sails. Just surprised the autoEQ did such a poor job. I haven't been able to really get the sound right. I used an Audiocontrol dsp prior to the Helix. Just was expecting a big improvement with the Helix. However, I'm no car audio guru so, still learning.

Below is pre-EQ

View attachment 13774
 
I’m gonna say based on your pre eq, you’re not setting something up right in the auto eq...did you watch the auto eq video by skizer in the sticky?
 
Probably user era although it seems pretty straight forward. I did watch that video a couple of times along with reviewing instructions on the Helix site.

Go into rta-settings, then back to measurement page-start analyzer-move reverence curve switches on the right-start measurement-autoset then let it do it's thing for approx a minute

If there is a step I'm doing wrong it's most likely the setting of the reference/offset switches on the right side of the graph wrong. However, Helix won't let you get them too out-of-whack because then it will fail to activate measuring.
 
Hi All,

Anyone knows why "Phase slider" on Helix dsp.3 on channel C/D/E/F are disabled? Can change on A/B and G/H channels though. Please let me know..

Regards,
Manoj
 
Hi All,

Anyone knows why "Phase slider" on Helix dsp.3 on channel C/D/E/F are disabled? Can change on A/B and G/H channels though. Please let me know..

Regards,
Manoj

mom guessing you have those channels set as midbass drivers, for whatever reason helix don’t let you adjust phase on them, just rename them to mids and all will be fine... however if they are Front and rear midbass just adjust tweeters and subs
 
mom guessing you have those channels set as midbass drivers, for whatever reason helix don’t let you adjust phase on them, just rename them to mids and all will be fine... however if they are Front and rear midbass just adjust tweeters and subs

Thank you for the quick reply and really appreciate that! I have only front stage and these are midrange / midbass drivers. I am trying to correct the phase difference between them at the crossover (they are already time-matched). Will try as you suggested to change the name.

Best regards,
Manoj
 
They aren’t time matched Very well at the crossover if there are phase differences... timing and phase need to be measured and set accurately with some clever software to be set correctly, there are literally hundreds of combinations and one, maybe two that will give good summation all the way through the crossover and the correct arrival times and phase

some will argue the tape measure is good enough... but those that actually take the time to look and learn will find out it’s not good enough to play with phase and ta and guess to get it bang on

if drivers are set as front mids you should be able to adjust phase, I can in my dsp.3 and my ultra
 
Thanks you!

Yeah, loving the process of learning theory and applying along the way. Using Smaart V8 for measurements, which is showing everything through its transfer function measurement feature.

Regards,
Manoj
 
Thanks you!

Yeah, loving the process of learning theory and applying along the way. Using Smaart V8 for measurements, which is showing everything through its transfer function measurement feature.

Regards,
Manoj

thank god someone else can use it, it’s the only way to set delays and ta for me, once youve done it you can’t Ever just use a tape again as you realise how far out it can be :(
 
Can you explain your signal chain dumdum ?

Is signal produced in the PC, then out the aux jack, splitting into the external sound card and the Head unit, or what ? You can see I"m a bit confused about how to set this up.
 
Can you explain your signal chain dumdum ?

Is signal produced in the PC, then out the aux jack, splitting into the external sound card and the Head unit, or what ? You can see I"m a bit confused about how to set this up.

you have a dual mono input and output usb audio interface, so you have output 1 and output 2, you will only use a single one of these which you set in smaart, it’s a 1/4” mono jack, this produces pink noise output, this is then split Via a splitter I’ve made (the second 1/4” mono jack) this is the loopback connection into input 2, the output on the other half of the Splitter is then routed to every channel on the dsp, so whatever the interface generates will then be played over every speaker

the mic is input on channel 1

the pc then compares the timing of the output audio to the input on the mic, this then generates time/phase information via fast Fourier transform in a live setting, you can also play music and get transfer function information from music also as it can compare the freq info in music to the mic input
 
Hey, its been a while folks have not been active on this post but I do need help with a helix DSP.3. I have tuned my DSP to the JBL house curve and I like how it sounds. There is a major problem I am hearing, or rather not hearing and that is when using tuning clicks/ pulses. I was using the ARC audio pulse for time alignment, and there is no sound. The pulse simply is not there. I played the pulse on other media players and its fine. Even the song "grandma's hands" by Livingston Taylor which has finger snaps is affected; the snaps are extremely muted. This was not happening with the OEM radio by itself. Any possible explanations?
 
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Hello,

My setup: Audison Voce AV K6, Hybrid Audio unity U3, MB Quartz QM 165, amplifiers 2x Audison SR 5.600, Helix DSP.3
I have Helix DSP.3 and for 4 months it worked without problems, but since yesterday every time I start the car I don't hear anything in the speakers. The amplifiers and the DSP are powered on, but nothing is heard. I have 2 inputs, high input and optical and no speaker can be heard from any source. After a hard reset of the Helix DSP.3 the speakers started to sound, but of course I have to load the setup. And so every time I start the car I have to hard reset the Helix DSP.3 and load my setup.
Has anyone had this problem, does anyone know where the problem might be?

Thank you!
 
Hello,

My setup: Audison Voce AV K6, Hybrid Audio unity U3, MB Quartz QM 165, amplifiers 2x Audison SR 5.600, Helix DSP.3
I have Helix DSP.3 and for 4 months it worked without problems, but since yesterday every time I start the car I don't hear anything in the speakers. The amplifiers and the DSP are powered on, but nothing is heard. I have 2 inputs, high input and optical and no speaker can be heard from any source. After a hard reset of the Helix DSP.3 the speakers started to sound, but of course I have to load the setup. And so every time I start the car I have to hard reset the Helix DSP.3 and load my setup.
Has anyone had this problem, does anyone know where the problem might be?

Thank you!
I’d remove all power and earth cables and run fresh to the device to rule that out, dsps are very simple devices, they tend to just work, and I don’t mean re terminate the end of existing cables, I mean remove all cables and run fresh to ensure you don’t have a bad earth or dodgy power supply
 
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