2014 Avalon Limited Build

The day is finally here. I literally just picked it up a few hours ago. Since I work at the dealership I got it from I went right from signing papers to the back for applying ceramic protection. One old lady owner, loaded and only 35k miles.
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For the first 2 months or so it’ll move a little slow but after the VA meet in September the Malibu will finally be retired and most of the equipment will get transferred into this car. It’s also going to be my daily driver so down time/disassembly will be minimal.

Car:
2014 Avalon with JBL/nav system

Goals:
Supreme SQ while keeping as much useable/cargo space as possible and use OEM speaker locations and minimal modifications

Equipment:
Head unit: Kenwood Excelon Reference DMX-1057XR
Processor: JL TWK88
Amps: Alpine PDX-V9 & F4
Front Stage: SI TM65mk4, SI M3 Carbon, SI M25mk2
Sub: SI… either SQL 15 or SQL 12

The decision on sub will depend on where there’s available room for it. I’m hoping for spare tire well but I’m limited on mounting depth there (I’ll measure that out in the next few days), if that doesn’t work either side of the trunk might work.

Most people will say you can’t replace the radio in the JBL/Syntesis cars and, from what I’ve read, it’s because the circuit board for the passenger airbag light is integrated into the board with the tuning knob so it can’t be transferred to the new dash kit. So after some investigation I am under the understanding that the plug for the airbag light is the same for all models of radios so I procured a non-JBL radio so I can dismantle THAT & I can keep my original radio intact.
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I should be able to start accruing install parts for this over the next few weeks so this will hopefully start moving along about the end of September. I’ll update as it moves along.
 
Got it tinted today

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For the short term I’ve decided to transfer the PPI mids & tweets currently in the Malibu over to this one rather than getting the SI speakers right away. Definitely getting the SQL though as I’m not doing IB in this car and the PPI 15” needs a HUGE box. Until my bank account recovers (I spent a bit more than I wanted to on the car), I’m gonna be on a tighter budget. It’s been about 10-15 years since I’ve had a car payment so this will be an adjustment.
 
For the short term I’ve decided to transfer the PPI mids & tweets currently in the Malibu over to this one rather than getting the SI speakers right away.

Well that didn’t last long. SI is offering discounted products at the Sundown show this weekend at prices I can’t pass up. Ian (Naiku) is going to the show and has agreed to do me a solid and pick up my new speakers. I won’t be picking them up until the VA meet at his place but, again, I can’t pass this deal up.

I’ve decided to get the SQL-12 instead of the 15 and more than likely it’ll get ‘glassed into the right rear corner of the trunk. I’ve fiberglassed stuff before but never anything that would have to be done upside down. Does anyone have any tips on how to apply mat to this surface without it falling off?
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To assure it fits properly I’d like to do the first layer IN the car and I’ll add additional layers after the first has cured and I can remove it safely. I estimate this area has about 1.3-1.5cf so I should be able to easily get the 1cf sealed I’m looking for.

In the meantime… my new remote starter has shown up. Supposedly it’s a 20-30min install. It comes with all needed T-harnesses and it’s all a matter of taking the underside of the dash off and securing the box. It even uses the OEM remotes.
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That'll get installed this weekend as well as starting the sub enclosure and/or amp rack.
 
Giorgio, the peanut butter box is here. Well… it’s not really the peanut butter box but today was delivery day.

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I’m still waiting on power wire & the USB adapter to show up and I also have to order a few more things yet but progress should start picking up in the next few weeks.

For the next 7 out of 12 Saturdays I’ll be busy, so time will be limited (I have season tickets to PSU football), because of that I’m really contemplating taking maybe 3-4 days vacation over an away game weekend to knock this biotch out. I figure a good Th-Tu stretch at the end of the month should be enough to get the majority done. I guess we’ll see how frisky I feel until then.

See y’all in a week or so in VA. Deuces!
 
Got the knob for the TWK mounted in a switch blank only to find out the shaft is off-center AFTER drilling the hole dead center in the blank. Luckily it actually fit. Who the hell designed this thing?
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The plan is to mount it in the dash with the other switches. Only problem is there’s no empty slots.
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The only one I’m not going to actually use is the Blind Spot Monitor switch as I plan on keeping that feature on, so I’ll do some investigating. If it’s as simple as jumping a few wires I’ll do that & remove the switch. If not, I’ll just tuck it back behind the dash and insert the knob/blank in its place.
 
I also got a bit of work done on the dash kit. So the OEM dash & radio have a brushed metal finish. Ignore the greasy fingerprints.

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The only problem is the only dash kit they make is a gloss black finish. Because of my OCD I couldn’t live with that so I ordered some brushed metal vinyl and wrapped the dash kit.

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Now for the fun part. Like I mentioned before, I bought a non-JBL radio for the passenger airbag light. After disassembly this is what I’m after. In the top left is the circuit board for the airbag light.

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In the JBL radio these 2 boards are 1 piece which makes putting it into the new dash kit extremely difficult.
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So I removed the airbag light and moved it over to the new dash kit & buttoned it up for now.
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I stopped short of mounting the radio but I should be able to get that done over the next few days.

Next up was the sub grille. I applied an SI sticker and painted it gunmetal grey to blend in better with the grey trunk then removed the sticker. This gave me a subtle SI logo in black. It looks a little more subtle than the pic shows. I’m guessing that’s due to the super bright LED lights in my garage.

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After going back & forth WAY too many times between a sealed box in the rear corner, ported behind the seat, IB through the ski pass & 4th order through either the ski pass or rear speaker openings I’ve decided on ported behind the rear seat. I’m aiming for 1.6cf tuned to 26Hz. I opted for this over sealed for the better efficiency and over 4th order for ease of build. As far as IB, I really wanted to face the sub towards the rear and I couldn’t design a way to make it look appealing to me so that was out as well.

I took some vacation days from 10/6 - 10/11 so a buddy of mine & I can knock this thing out. In the meantime I’ll be doing some more odds & ends to help accelerate the process.

Until next time…
 
Yup. That’s the plan. There’s enough room to do that but I’m still thinking about jumping wires if I can to keep the button from being accidentally pressed (not that I think that’ll even be possible).
 
Hey Todd, I have a bass knob and the controller for my minidsp and Steve mounted them in the little cubby like you have below your switch panel. Rather than making some sort of face plate to put them in, he put some little magnets on the base of each knob and matching magnets on the base of the cubby. If I need to use the cubby for storage, the knobs just move out of the way and pop back in place when needed.
 
That’s not a bad idea. I put the knob in a similar cubby in the Malibu but the biggest issue I have is with the size of the “box” that’s attached to the knob. You’d really have to hack the cubby up to fit the wire & box through and I don’t want to do that.

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All of that is connected together. It’s one of the only things I can say JL’s engineers didn’t think all the way through.
 
Got a bit more done in limited action this weekend due to Ian but luckily all I got was a lot of rain.

Under the HVAC panel, and just forward of the shifter, is a panel with a small “mood lighting” LED. So I popped it out and did a little investigating.

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Popped out the LED and the gray plug/housing
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Made up a small ABS panel
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Hot glued that bugger in place and inserted the LED for the TWK
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I’m still not sure the light won’t be too bright but I did find a bit of a solution if it’s still too much at night. I’ll just have to wait and see.

I also managed to get the drivers side sail panel mocked up before yet another downpour began. Because of the constant in/out during trial fitting, and not wanting to get wet, I decided to stop for today. Here’s what I have so far…
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I’m not sure why the pics are sideways, I even tried rotating them and then adding them again but they still come up sideways. Anyway… if they’re not directly on axis, it’s only a few degrees off so I’m calling it on-axis. I’m going to try to get the passenger one done in the next evening or 2. Thursday we’ll start the sub box and amp rack/wiring. Yay, gettin stuff done!
 
The LED for the TWK is very bright. I used black Flex-Seal and a paint brush and painted the little light bulb. I just left a small dot of the LED exposed. That worked great to dim the bulb. Nice work Todd, Can't wait to see it some day.
 
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Pic is sideways again… Meh, I give up. Passenger side mocked up. That is all for today. Maybe I’ll get some fabric stretched over them tomorrow depending on weather. I’m kinda tired of working in the cold & wet.
 
Day 1 in the books…

The front doors in this car fairly solid with only a few small holes. I managed to apply Killmat to about 75% of the outer skin and about 50% of the inner.
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I was pleasantly surprised that this car, even being a ‘14, had a wire boot and not a molex connector. I didn’t get a pic of the pass side door but here’s the driver’s
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and I got the TM65s mounted
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I ran the power wire through the firewall and down the driver’s side under the sill plate
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Next was the task of getting the ski pass door removed
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Easy peasy, slide the rod out
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and voilà, no door
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I’m still not sure why some pics are sideways. Am I doing something wrong?
 
I also pulled the rear shelf, removed the rear speakers & applied Killmat
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I also finished applying the Killmat to the rest of the trunk. I failed to get finished pics as I was cruising along and forgot. I did manage, however, to take a pic of the awesome “deadening” job done by the factory
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While the doors were apart I applied tesa tape to the seat memory switch as they’re known to rattle even with just the factory speakers
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I also got the BSM switch zip-tied behind the dash
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And mounted the Twk knob with minimal modifications.
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and while things were apart I noticed this little spot above the cubby that looked perfect for the Twk LED.
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So I pulled the LED out of the center piece it was in and moved it to here. It’s kinda tough to see but now I don’t have to worry about the brightness and I can just drop the cubby door to verify color/preset.
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Again with the sideways pics. I give up.

So we’ll be back at it tomorrow. Stay tuned.
 
Now that I got the OEM radio out you can see why you can’t just pull the airbag light out of the JBL radio. You can see through the “window” that the circuit board is all one piece
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Depending on the lighting and/or angle the shade of the vinyl wrapped kit looks much different than it does in person. The camera & lighting seems to exaggerate the difference while in person it’s really not that bad. It actually matches the shade of the “leather” on the rest of the dash.
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But the new head unit is in and I can now confirm that using the airbag light from a non-JBL donor radio will, in fact, work.
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Mids are mounted & wired
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Because the SI 3” is bigger than the OEM 2” the grille had to be trimmed on the back side and also because of the larger speaker I couldn’t attach the “fast ring” to the baffle. So with a little more trimming I was able to stick it to the grille to isolate the front wave from the back.
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I removed the center dash speaker and put the GPS antenna in its place.
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3 sets of speaker wires, power wire & Twk cable run down the left side
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3 sets of speaker wires, 1 RCA & remote run down the right
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So the sub box & amp rack didn’t get built today but should happen Monday. This weekend I’ll concentrate on mounting the fuse holder in the engine compartment as well as finishing the tweeter sails. After that it’s just trunk.
 
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