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Thread: Time alignment

  1. Back To Top    #11
    Noob ender2664's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by chithead View Post
    How many channels of processing does your current setup require?

    Are you looking to add more later?
    Not entirely sure what you mean by that, but 5?
    One for my front components that have crossovers, one for the speaker in my dash, one for my speakers in my passenger compartment, one for the the speakers in my rear deck, and one for the subs?
    I have the LC6-1200 and it still has empty outs, and a sub amp.

    I definitely don't plan on adding more speakers.

  2. Back To Top    #12
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    How many channels total do you need?

    I have dayton dsp in my wifes suv. It is fine for basic peq and time. It doesn't have all pass filters which sucks for more advanced things and doesn't have any upmixers or proper differential rear fill ability.
    But for PEQ/Time it is the same as all the rest.

    A used mini dsp cdsp 6x8 or a used helix dsp.2/3 would work too. Can find those for the sub $500 range.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

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    Noob ender2664's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by Jdunk54nl View Post
    How many channels total do you need?

    I have dayton dsp in my wifes suv. It is fine for basic peq and time. It doesn't have all pass filters which sucks for more advanced things and doesn't have any upmixers or proper differential rear fill ability.
    But for PEQ/Time it is the same as all the rest.

    A used mini dsp cdsp 6x8 or a used helix dsp.2/3 would work too. Can find those for the sub $500 range.

    Still not sure what you mean by how many channels do I need.
    Do I need 1 channel for each pair of speakers?
    Or 1 channel for each speaker?
    1 channel for a component speaker
    Or Two?
    1 channel for each sub? Or one for the pair in the same box?
    Between 5-11 depending on the answers to those questions.

    Set up
    Kicker KSS690 6x9-components front doors
    KICKER 47KSC6504 6.5 Inch sail panels
    REF-9632IX 6x9- rear deck
    Rockford fosgate 500x1d (2 10s)
    Rockford Fosgate Prime R2-2X10

    4 non component speakers
    2 component speakers
    2 subs
    1 center channel speaker

    My LC6-1200 does channel summing and lets me set high and low pass filters for each pair of speakers.

  4. Back To Top    #14
    Noob Jdunk54nl's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by ender2664 View Post
    Still not sure what you mean by how many channels do I need.
    Do I need 1 channel for each pair of speakers?
    Or 1 channel for each speaker?
    1 channel for a component speaker
    Or Two?
    1 channel for each sub? Or one for the pair in the same box?
    Between 5-11 depending on the answers to those questions.

    Set up
    Kicker KSS690 6x9-components front doors
    KICKER 47KSC6504 6.5 Inch sail panels
    REF-9632IX 6x9- rear deck
    Rockford fosgate 500x1d (2 10s)
    Rockford Fosgate Prime R2-2X10

    4 non component speakers
    2 component speakers
    2 subs
    1 center channel speaker

    My LC6-1200 does channel summing and lets me set high and low pass filters for each pair of speakers.

    Ideally you need one channel for every single speaker/driver. This includes amp channels. But if you don't have an amp channel for every individual driver, at least a dsp channel for every amp channel you have.
    2014 F150 Limited -> Kenwood DDX-9907xr -> Helix DSP.2 -> Alpine PDX-V9 -> SI M25 mki in Valicar Stuttgart Pods, Rear SB17's, Sub SI BM MKV's in MTI BOX. Alpine PDX-F6 -> SI Tm65 mkIV, SI M3 mkI in Valicar Stuttgart Pods

  5. Back To Top    #15
    Noob ender2664's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    This is what it looks like going into the amps

    https://youtu.be/YmHnhANcrAc

  6. Back To Top    #16
    Noob TheTodd's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    I used to use the Dayton 408 and “upgraded” to the JL TWK88. The Dayton is a VERY capable DSP if you’re looking for basic functions, and it’s a bargain for the ~$200 price tag (assuming you add some options). The Bluetooth module alone was worth it for me to be able to use my phone to make quick adjustments rather than hooking up a laptop. I’ve read of multiple people experiencing noise even though mine was noise & trouble free.

    I used upgraded in quotes because for all the features the Dayton has, the JL is almost exactly the same as far as ability & functionality. The biggest difference for me was that the JL has a control knob that does preset selection, master volume AND sub volume whereas the Dayton remote only did presets & master volume. Personally, I wanted a sub volume control so the Dayton came out. If you do some shopping you can find some decent gear for the right price. I got my TWK for <$400 from Crutchfield as an open box deal.

    I’ll also say that while anyone will benefit from a DSP’s EQ functions (because you’ll have multiple EQ bands per channel), the real benefit comes from removing the passive crossovers and using the DSP to control the crossovers, EQ & time alignment for EACH SPEAKER. As an example, I have a 3-way set for my front stage. If I was using passive crossovers I’d have a 10-band EQ for the L and a 10-band for the R. Using the DSP, I now have 10 bands for each speaker so, basically, I have 60 bands of EQ available for just my front speakers. I can also delay each speaker so the sound from each speaker reaches my ears at exactly the same time. With passive crossovers you can’t do that and the sound gets compromised. Can it still sound good? Maybe. Will it sound AS good? Nope. No way.
    Last edited by TheTodd; 05-24-2023 at 08:10 PM.

  7. Back To Top    #17
    Noob ender2664's Avatar
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    Re: Time alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by TheTodd View Post
    I used to use the Dayton 408 and “upgraded” to the JL TWK88. The Dayton is a VERY capable DSP if you’re looking for basic functions, and it’s a bargain for the ~$200 price tag (assuming you add some options). The Bluetooth module alone was worth it for me to be able to use my phone to make quick adjustments rather than hooking up a laptop. I’ve read of multiple people experiencing noise even though mine was noise & trouble free.

    I used upgraded in quotes because for all the features the Dayton has, the JL is almost exactly the same as far as ability & functionality. The biggest difference for me was that the JL has a control knob that does preset selection, master volume AND sub volume whereas the Dayton remote only did presets & master volume. Personally, I wanted a sub volume control so the Dayton came out. If you do some shopping you can find some decent gear for the right price. I got my TWK for <$400 from Crutchfield as an open box deal.

    I’ll also say that while anyone will benefit from a DSP’s EQ functions (because you’ll have multiple EQ bands per channel), the real benefit comes from removing the passive crossovers and using the DSP to control the crossovers, EQ & time alignment for EACH SPEAKER. As an example, I have a 3-way set for my front stage. If I was using passive crossovers I’d have a 10-band EQ for the L and a 10-band for the R. Using the DSP, I now have 10 bands for each speaker so, basically, I have 60 bands of EQ available for just my front speakers. I can also delay each speaker so the sound from each speaker reaches my ears at exactly the same time. With passive crossovers you can’t do that and the sound gets compromised. Can it still sound good? Maybe. Will it sound AS good? Nope. No way.


    Thank you

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