2016 Porsche Macan S - stealth SQ build

Door card / trim.

Did the same for left and right. Similar theme. dampen anything that squeaked or rattled.

Peel back factory felt
Attachment 13052


The factory BOSE grill was sqeaky as heck. Each heat staked rivet was loose. I covered everything I could in butyl rope to dampen vibration. The end result was pure silence when you press on the speaker grill. Far better than the squeaky mess it was.
Attachment 13053

Attachment 13054




Large open flat surfaces like the back of the cup holders resonate like mad when bass is playing. So, I dampened them up too.
Attachment 13056


Since the midrange is mounted to the door trim panel I wanted to dampen the region surrounding it too. With midrange blaring I am sure the trim resonates along with it. So, tame it down.
Attachment 13057


Go throughout the door trim panel and secure loose wires.
Attachment 13058

Attachment 13059


Totally deaden the air space around the midrange and try to isolate it from midbass.
Attachment 13060

Attachment 13062


Put felt back and prepare to re-install:
Attachment 13061

Ge0

I bought this little LED grabber tool at Harbor Freight that saves a lot of hassle replacing recessed screws. Sorry if the focus is off. I had been working on the car for 12 hours in the rain and my mind was fried.
Attachment 13070Attachment 13068Attachment 13069Attachment 13071


Ge0

Finally, I finished my tweeter install. Not sure if this was required but thought it would be a good idea anyway. I placed a bunch of closed cell foam around the tweeter body before putting the grill back on. I figured the foam may dampen any back reflections. We'll see...

Attachment 13072

Ge0

Well, if you are going to go big. You might as well to all out.

My rear fill speakers were mounted to flimsy little plastic panels. Again, I don't want vibration and buzzing noises coloring my sound. So...

Deaden up the panels
Attachment 13075

Attachment 13074

Attachment 13076


Apply foam to soak up standing waves behind the speaker
Attachment 13079

Attachment 13077

Attachment 13078

Attachment 13080

Ge0

Putin' it all back together most of the way.


No D-pillar installed:
Attachment 13103

Attachment 13095

Attachment 13104


Insert D-Pillars
Attachment 13105


Attachment 13097


These risers are going to be important when implementing enhanced false floor
Attachment 13106


Attachment 13101


These risers are going to be important when implementing enhanced false floor
Attachment 13107


Temporarily place these trim pieces back so I can replace sub
Attachment 13108


Set subwoofer baffle back in place for testing
Attachment 13102

Ge0

I like how the helix install came out under the driver's side D-pillar. Nicely tucked away and clean. Remove the silkscreen and tell people it came that way from the factory ;) (kidding)

Does the sub baffle sit proud of the surrounding floor? Kinda looks like that even before it has upholstery?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whiterabbit

I like how the helix install came out under the driver's side D-pillar. Nicely tucked away and clean. Remove the silkscreen and tell people it came that way from the factory ;) (kidding)

Does the sub baffle sit proud of the surrounding floor? Kinda looks like that even before it has upholstery?

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The existing baffle sits about 1/4" higher than the surrounding floor. I was going route a 3/8" deep rabbet all the way around it so it would sit slightly recessed. It would be flush once I lay down my color matched factory carpet.

HOWEVER. I have another idea. Take a look at the photos above. The photo with the red arrows highlights plastic interior trim pieces the baffle would loosely sit on top of. If I remove them it exposes 4 steel mounting risers that are bolted into the vehicle pretty securely (yellow arrows). What if I crafted the entire floor out of MDF and bolted it to these risers? This would make my baffle much more robust / secure. But, would be a pain in the ass to remove if I needed to get to the spare or the battery.

Then I got thinking. Why don't I just glass a damn enclosure in under the factory floor and be done with it. Well, I wouldn't have enough air space with the darn spare crammed in there. Ughhh.

I really wish I could fit a sub inside the spare wheel but it has such a deep dish there is just not enough room.

On the other hand, I am getting quite a bit of bass out of what I currently have. But one always wants more...

Ge0

Couple choices then

1. whole floor, bolted down, live with the serviceability problem (not my choice...)

2. route the rabbet and move on in life. Don't forget to route it extra deep because the upholstery takes up thickness too, on both sides.

3. make the whole floor, but design it so there is a hinge so you can lift up on the floor to fix the serviceability issue. Or inserts for that matter.

I guess there is 4., live with the floor sitting proud in the middle. Also not my choice :)

Decisions decisions

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whiterabbit

Couple choices then

1. whole floor, bolted down, live with the serviceability problem (not my choice...)

2. route the rabbet and move on in life. Don't forget to route it extra deep because the upholstery takes up thickness too, on both sides.

3. make the whole floor, but design it so there is a hinge so you can lift up on the floor to fix the serviceability issue. Or inserts for that matter.

I guess there is 4., live with the floor sitting proud in the middle. Also not my choice :)

Decisions decisions

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Option 5.)

https://www.amazon.com/2015-2020-Por...%2C149&sr=8-17

I already own one from before I started screwing around with subwoofers :)

Ge0

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ge0

The existing baffle sits about 1/4" higher than the surrounding floor. I was going route a 3/8" deep rabbet all the way around it so it would sit slightly recessed. It would be flush once I lay down my color matched factory carpet.

HOWEVER. I have another idea. Take a look at the photos above. The photo with the red arrows highlights plastic interior trim pieces the baffle would loosely sit on top of. If I remove them it exposes 4 steel mounting risers that are bolted into the vehicle pretty securely (yellow arrows). What if I crafted the entire floor out of MDF and bolted it to these risers? This would make my baffle much more robust / secure. But, would be a pain in the ass to remove if I needed to get to the spare or the battery.

Then I got thinking. Why don't I just glass a damn enclosure in under the factory floor and be done with it. Well, I wouldn't have enough air space with the darn spare crammed in there. Ughhh.

I really wish I could fit a sub inside the spare wheel but it has such a deep dish there is just not enough room.

On the other hand, I am getting quite a bit of bass out of what I currently have. But one always wants more...

Ge0

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I get in my head about decisions like this all the time. The question I had when I read this was how often do you need to access the battery or spare? If it's only a few times a year or less I'd go with the more difficult but better looking arrangement.