Check your amp instructions, some need a splitter cable to have that one output split into two so the amp has both left and "right". Others are fine just running off of one rca.
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Helix DSP.3 help thread
- Thread starter jtrosky
- Start date
Check your amp instructions, some need a splitter cable to have that one output split into two so the amp has both left and "right". Others are fine just running off of one rca.
The manual for the Memphis PRX1500.1 mentions nothing about single RCA or both so I'll assume it needs both. I guess I could run the Helix like my TWK and run L and R sub. I'd lose the Helix augmented bass feature, but who actually uses that anyway? But good to know if I ever want to run a center channel.
The manual for the Memphis PRX1500.1 mentions nothing about single RCA or both so I'll assume it needs both. I guess I could run the Helix like my TWK and run L and R sub. I'd lose the Helix augmented bass feature, but who actually uses that anyway? But good to know if I ever want to run a center channel.
It is $6 for a good y splitter....
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a...sp/krystal-kable-twisted-pair-y-adapter-1f2m/
Or
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Krystal-Twisted-Triple-Adapter/dp/B007HVDCWI
I understand thanks. But I already have KnuKonceptz Krux L+R rca. So rather than keeping the R dangling free I figure might as well connect it and let Helix send sub on both channels and link their EQ, rather than buying a y-adapter that isn't needed unless I want to free up a helix channel for center. I'd see the only reason being because I'd want to use the augmented bass feature.
Nice, I am going to try it tomorrow and see how well it works. Looking at the software and reading the info on it via AF, it sound fairly nice for a decent tune. I am just wondering if it just keeps the Q and frequency the same as the original 31 band graphic EQ or if it adjusts those. If it changes the graphic to parametric and adjusts the Q, Frequency, and magnitude, it would be SUPER powerful and would easily get rid of REW for the basic EQ.
I'm sorry I missed all of this. Still getting used to the new forum and where people post I guess.
Pay no attention to the channels they mention in the software as far as the effect channels, they were there from the original application where there was really only one or two possible setups. The Bass enhancement will take place on all channels labeled as subwoofer, the front effects can be on the 4 labeled as they are almost always used as the front channels.
This will all chance in the next software where virtual channels are introduced to the software.
And yes, it is very straightforward, especially considering all it can do. It was far and away the easiest software I have ever used for a DSP. In fact that is a major reason we chose to make it the foundation of our business.
If you have any other questions I'll try to keep up with the threads, but feel free to contact me directly.
Pay no attention to the channels they mention in the software as far as the effect channels, they were there from the original application where there was really only one or two possible setups. The Bass enhancement will take place on all channels labeled as subwoofer, the front effects can be on the 4 labeled as they are almost always used as the front channels.
This will all chance in the next software where virtual channels are introduced to the software.
And yes, it is very straightforward, especially considering all it can do. It was far and away the easiest software I have ever used for a DSP. In fact that is a major reason we chose to make it the foundation of our business.
If you have any other questions I'll try to keep up with the threads, but feel free to contact me directly.
Just finished up a new install in my personal car. Will be trying the Auto EQ for the first time
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Unless there's a setting whee this can be adjusted, I think the Helix Auto-Tune simply applies boost/cut to the graphic EQ bands, instead of altering the center frequency or "Q". At least that's what I got when attempting to run it a couple of weeks ago. If that's all it does, I'll likely stick with REW and calculate my parametric EQ's the way Andy W. explains in his Tuning How-To.
If you're wanting to make something sound better in very little time, the Helix Auto_tune is better than nothing.
Just finished up a tune on my own car after doing a new install. Decided to try the Auto EQ before I did anything like I said. I was able to set crossovers, inouts/outputs, take, go into the rta and make my own curve, tune left, tune right, tune sub, tune global... all in 15 minutes. I would have zero shame in giving the end result to a customer, where I usually spend 2+ hours tuning. Verified the measurements and adjustments with rew... to a T. I'll get a video up shortly.
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Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Just finished up a tune on my own car after doing a new install. Decided to try the Auto EQ before I did anything like I said. I was able to set crossovers, inouts/outputs, take, go into the rta and make my own curve, tune left, tune right, tune sub, tune global... all in 15 minutes. I would have zero shame in giving the end result to a customer, where I usually spend 2+ hours tuning. Verified the measurements and adjustments with rew... to a T. I'll get a video up shortly.
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When you say tune left, do you mean the left side as a whole? Or did you tune left mid, left tweeter, etc separately and then put them together?
Left as a wholeWhen you say tune left, do you mean the left side as a whole? Or did you tune left mid, left tweeter, etc separately and then put them together?
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It's part if the pc tool software and has been out for a while now. Probably over a yearLooking forward to the video Nick, interested to see what the AutoEQ is like.
Is this feature new for the DSP.3 or just an update to the DSP software tool for the PC?
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thedynoguy
Noob
I'm reading this at 4:30am and you posted it 4 hours ago. Do you ever sleep?It's part if the pc tool software and has been out for a while now. Probably over a year
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I touched on this in another thread, but as I start to think through my PAC AP4/Helix DSP.3 upgrade (from Rockford Fosgate DSR-1), I want to make sure I understand line-level output voltage and potential issues related to the 6V line-level outputs on the Helix DSP.3.
My under-seat sub specs say it's line-level inputs are rated for 0.2V - 2V. Obviously, if the Helix is outputting up to 6V, that could be a problem, correct? Someone else mentioned that I could just lower the output levels in the DSP to account for this.
Then I looked at my amp - a JL Audio XD600/6v2. It's specs say the input voltage range is 200mV - 8V RMS. However, that voltage range is divided up into two "sub-ranges", selectable via an "Input Voltage" switch. The switch can either be set to "Low" for 200mV - 2V, or "High" for 800mV - 8V. Normally, this low/high switch is set to "low" for line-level inputs and "high" for speaker-level inputs - but the manual does say this regarding the "High" setting: "This is useful for certain high-output preamp level signals as well as speaker level output...".
So - to me, it sounds like I should reduce the output level for the sub channel in the DSP.3 - and set the "Input Voltage" switch on the XD600/6v2 amp to "High", even though I'm using low-level inputs. Then I would have to adjust things to make the levels "mesh" properly between the sub and the rest of the speakers.
Am I on the right track?
Interestingly, I also noticed that my current DSR-1 has 4V line-level outputs (assumed they were 2V), so it sounds like things are already not optimal between my DSR-1 and my under-seat sub. It's working fine, but I'm guessing that there is a possiblity of me overdriving the under-seat sub in certain situations?
Thanks in advance!
My under-seat sub specs say it's line-level inputs are rated for 0.2V - 2V. Obviously, if the Helix is outputting up to 6V, that could be a problem, correct? Someone else mentioned that I could just lower the output levels in the DSP to account for this.
Then I looked at my amp - a JL Audio XD600/6v2. It's specs say the input voltage range is 200mV - 8V RMS. However, that voltage range is divided up into two "sub-ranges", selectable via an "Input Voltage" switch. The switch can either be set to "Low" for 200mV - 2V, or "High" for 800mV - 8V. Normally, this low/high switch is set to "low" for line-level inputs and "high" for speaker-level inputs - but the manual does say this regarding the "High" setting: "This is useful for certain high-output preamp level signals as well as speaker level output...".
So - to me, it sounds like I should reduce the output level for the sub channel in the DSP.3 - and set the "Input Voltage" switch on the XD600/6v2 amp to "High", even though I'm using low-level inputs. Then I would have to adjust things to make the levels "mesh" properly between the sub and the rest of the speakers.
Am I on the right track?
Interestingly, I also noticed that my current DSR-1 has 4V line-level outputs (assumed they were 2V), so it sounds like things are already not optimal between my DSR-1 and my under-seat sub. It's working fine, but I'm guessing that there is a possiblity of me overdriving the under-seat sub in certain situations?
Thanks in advance!
I'd say you're on the right track.
In the end you adjust your output at the amp gain or DSP to prevent clipping/distortion so it isn't damaging to your speakers. But it can impact your noise floor. Ideally, you want your DSP to have the max output it can have and your amp gain to have the lowest setting it can have to reduce noise floor.
In your case that would be running the sub channel at a negative dB output that prevents it from going over 2v when at max volume and then adjust amp gain to max output the sub can handle. Then for your front speakers I'd set the XD600 to high input voltage with helix outputs starting at 0dB and adjusting amp gains to speaker max output. Then as you are tuning you will start cutting some channels in the Helix output to level match between the different speakers.
In the end you adjust your output at the amp gain or DSP to prevent clipping/distortion so it isn't damaging to your speakers. But it can impact your noise floor. Ideally, you want your DSP to have the max output it can have and your amp gain to have the lowest setting it can have to reduce noise floor.
In your case that would be running the sub channel at a negative dB output that prevents it from going over 2v when at max volume and then adjust amp gain to max output the sub can handle. Then for your front speakers I'd set the XD600 to high input voltage with helix outputs starting at 0dB and adjusting amp gains to speaker max output. Then as you are tuning you will start cutting some channels in the Helix output to level match between the different speakers.
It's part if the pc tool software and has been out for a while now. Probably over a year
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So the AutoEq works on any Helix dsp it’s just a software update?
I touched on this in another thread, but as I start to think through my PAC AP4/Helix DSP.3 upgrade (from Rockford Fosgate DSR-1), I want to make sure I understand line-level output voltage and potential issues related to the 6V line-level outputs on the Helix DSP.3.
My under-seat sub specs say it's line-level inputs are rated for 0.2V - 2V. Obviously, if the Helix is outputting up to 6V, that could be a problem, correct? Someone else mentioned that I could just lower the output levels in the DSP to account for this.
Then I looked at my amp - a JL Audio XD600/6v2. It's specs say the input voltage range is 200mV - 8V RMS. However, that voltage range is divided up into two "sub-ranges", selectable via an "Input Voltage" switch. The switch can either be set to "Low" for 200mV - 2V, or "High" for 800mV - 8V. Normally, this low/high switch is set to "low" for line-level inputs and "high" for speaker-level inputs - but the manual does say this regarding the "High" setting: "This is useful for certain high-output preamp level signals as well as speaker level output...".
So - to me, it sounds like I should reduce the output level for the sub channel in the DSP.3 - and set the "Input Voltage" switch on the XD600/6v2 amp to "High", even though I'm using low-level inputs. Then I would have to adjust things to make the levels "mesh" properly between the sub and the rest of the speakers.
Am I on the right track?
Interestingly, I also noticed that my current DSR-1 has 4V line-level outputs (assumed they were 2V), so it sounds like things are already not optimal between my DSR-1 and my under-seat sub. It's working fine, but I'm guessing that there is a possiblity of me overdriving the under-seat sub in certain situations?
Thanks in advance!
You always want to set your gain structure for two things. The first is max output from that device to where it isn't clipping the signal. The second is max input of the next device inline. You set it for whatever requires the lowest setting. If you need 2v to your sub, set your dsp output to max 2v for those channels. If your jl amp can handle the 6v out of the dsp, set your dsp output for those channels to 6v and set the JL amp for the correct setting.
You don't want to send more voltage in to your amp than it can handle, this will overdrive the inputs on that device and could cause a bunch of issues.