Some weird auto-mute feature on the radio when you first start the car, and tweeters weren't connected lolYou're not gonna reveal the (non) issue?![]()
Next up was getting the wires run into the door for the tweeters. Since the OEM midrange and tweeter were tied into each other passively inside of the door, we needed to run a wire through the doors molex connector. From the outside, this one really looked like it was going to be a disaster and i would have had to make a second boot. Thankfully, the molex is easily removable, the door is easily removable, and the molex even has a hole on the bottom that can fit a run or two of thin speaker wire through.. perfect for midrange and tweeter. I used the OEM wire for the midrange and ran 18 gauge speaker wire through for the tweeter
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Said molex connector. The hole in the bottom is large enough to run some thinner speaker wire (16, maybe 14 gauge max) through with ease. I used 18 gauge
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Door off and running wire through
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Also got the center channel removed to start the planning and design. The plan is, as mentioned before, to mount a pair of Focal 3.5WM and a single Focal TBM. Unfortunately, this is going to be a bit trickier than i thought due to depth. An Hvac vent protrudes a bit on the passanger side of the grill and is going to make doing this how i wanted to a bit tricky without cutting the vent and patching it, which i'd prefer to not do. But at the same time, i'd much prefer to keep the grill completely flush with the dash as the OEM grill is vs keeping that vent fully unmolested. The plan with the grill is to keep the mids hidden under the grill, and fabricate and B&W style mount for the tweeter. Below that is the B&W trim center channel for this car..
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Aside from the plans and what is in photos, this weekend after doing some other side work, i got the "part 1" system pretty much fully buttoned up and wired, rear seats re-installed, and all trim panels re-installed. From here, i need to finish the pillars, finish the center channel (hardly started besides cad files made), finish the sub enclosure, start the amp rack, and get all of the subs and amps and DSP Ultra installed, along with a controller with it, whether its the Director or URC.3 and wifi adapter, im not sure. This trunk will not be a quick process though. Im going to try to push myself. I'm going to have to constantly remind myself to just do it once and do it right. I tend to not do that on my own cars since i have so much other stuff going on and i just want it at least functional. Once its functional, it tends to get a backseat. I cannot do that.
Im going to try to push myself. I'm going to have to constantly remind myself to just do it once and do it right. I tend to not do that on my own cars since i have so much other stuff going on and i just want it at least functional. Once its functional, it tends to get a backseat. I cannot do that.
Next up was getting the wires run into the door for the tweeters. Since the OEM midrange and tweeter were tied into each other passively inside of the door, we needed to run a wire through the doors molex connector. From the outside, this one really looked like it was going to be a disaster and i would have had to make a second boot. Thankfully, the molex is easily removable, the door is easily removable, and the molex even has a hole on the bottom that can fit a run or two of thin speaker wire through.. perfect for midrange and tweeter. I used the OEM wire for the midrange and ran 18 gauge speaker wire through for the tweeter
![]()
Said molex connector. The hole in the bottom is large enough to run some thinner speaker wire (16, maybe 14 gauge max) through with ease. I used 18 gauge
![]()
Door off and running wire through
![]()
Also got the center channel removed to start the planning and design. The plan is, as mentioned before, to mount a pair of Focal 3.5WM and a single Focal TBM. Unfortunately, this is going to be a bit trickier than i thought due to depth. An Hvac vent protrudes a bit on the passanger side of the grill and is going to make doing this how i wanted to a bit tricky without cutting the vent and patching it, which i'd prefer to not do. But at the same time, i'd much prefer to keep the grill completely flush with the dash as the OEM grill is vs keeping that vent fully unmolested. The plan with the grill is to keep the mids hidden under the grill, and fabricate and B&W style mount for the tweeter. Below that is the B&W trim center channel for this car..
![]()
![]()
Aside from the plans and what is in photos, this weekend after doing some other side work, i got the "part 1" system pretty much fully buttoned up and wired, rear seats re-installed, and all trim panels re-installed. From here, i need to finish the pillars, finish the center channel (hardly started besides cad files made), finish the sub enclosure, start the amp rack, and get all of the subs and amps and DSP Ultra installed, along with a controller with it, whether its the Director or URC.3 and wifi adapter, im not sure. This trunk will not be a quick process though. Im going to try to push myself. I'm going to have to constantly remind myself to just do it once and do it right. I tend to not do that on my own cars since i have so much other stuff going on and i just want it at least functional. Once its functional, it tends to get a backseat. I cannot do that.
I was thinking about taking a break from customers cars for a couple weeks to just bang this bad boy out, and properly. Seems like it might be a better option than doing it at nights after an already long and hot day at workAlong the lines of Ge0's statement... you probably need to treat your own car like a customer's car. That is your whole point with the build anyway, right? "This is what we can do for you." Even if it takes a little more time, make sure that when you're done there isn't a single aspect of the build you wouldn't be proud to show the customer. All the way down to the hidden wiring. It will be worth it.
I'm confused. Your car has the Harman center channel as shown. But, you want to fabricate a tweeter mount similar to the B&W solution. But, the car also comes with a B&W option?
Why don't you just buy a B&W center channel replacement and work with it from there? Wouldn't that look more OEM?
Ge0
Because i want an apicella auto sound center
Also, itll still need to be modified to house the drivers i want to use
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Yeah, I'm sure he could lolI'm sure ol' PB could 3D print you some monstrosity of a unity horn you could two-sided tape to your dash for use as a center.![]()
Because i want an apicella auto sound center
Also, itll still need to be modified to house the drivers i want to use
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I do, and I just dropped a metric assload into it an unexpected expense on it (needed a new RF laser tube) but now it cuts so much quicker and better. But stay tuned, itll be niceThat's right. You do have that fancy laser to mess with don't you [emoji106]
Ge0
Is this the new laser cutter you bought? Was the laser not under some sort of warranty?I do, and I just dropped a metric assload into it an unexpected expense on it (needed a new RF laser tube) but now it cuts so much quicker and better. But stay tuned, itll be nice![]()
I used to have an itty bitty glowforge. Now I have a 36x24 Epilog ext that I purchased used from a distributor of theirs. It was made in 2007, but at the end of the day, a good laser is a good laser. Couldnt afford a 35k bill for a brand new good American made laser, and didnt want to get a Chinese one, so this was best case. Some parts are still under warranty even after 13 years and 3 owners (800 dollar x axis motor was sent to me twice free of charge without question), but laser tubes are maintenance, and they don't give you any warning. The good/bad side is that rf style c02 tunes are Uber expensive compared to glass (example, its a 9500 dollar upgrade on the Chinese one I was looking at), but the last much longer and are more reliable that glass co2 tubesIs this the new laser cutter you bought? Was the laser not under some sort of warranty?