2004 Toyota Sienna

My left midbass went kapoot.

This FaitalPro 10FE200 will be the new upper midbasses. I chose these for the 4 ohm pro audio output capabilities and as a reason to install the DIYMA R12 to fill in the gap between the HT-18 and these 10"s. Being 4 ohm, these new 10"s won't need to be bridged on the DI1200.4 amp, which will free up 2 channels to bridge the R12 which is also 4 ohm.

The R12 will be in a .73cuft net sealed enclosure in the center console location.
 
I made the R12 enclosure and got the R12 out to test fit after cutting the mounting hole... to noticed there were 3 small tears/cuts in the surround where it meets the cone.
A few thin layers of E6000 was applied on both sides. It's not pretty, but It'll be downfiring. Being as old as it is, I should probably plan for possible future replacements.

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KYMtqQO.jpeg


KTe4Gqz.jpeg
 
Oh dang. As thin as the cone and surround on those are, I mean... still hate it though. Really hoping this works out as you're hoping, as the idea sounds fantastic.
 
chithead said:
Oh dang. As thin as the cone and surround on those are, I mean... still hate it though. Really hoping this works out as you're hoping, as the idea sounds fantastic.
Click to expand...
I was going back and forth on which 10"s to get. It was between the Faital 10FE200 or the Peerless SLS 10 (which I already had in the doors of a '96 Camry, so I wanted to try something new). With an f3 of 47hz in 1cuft, the Peerless SLS would have been more flexible with this install and I could run those with or without a front sub. These FaitalPros, with an f3 of 85hz, definitely need to paired with front sub, at least in this setup as the HT-18 drops off around 60hz.

After seeing the tears in the surround of the R12, I thought I should have ordered the SLS 10s. As long as the R12 and the e6000 glue holds up for a good amount of time for me to enjoy it, I'll be happy.
The best possible replacement I can find for the R12 would be a Dayton HF 12 for the same enclosure size.
 
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I'm liking this center console front sub other than the current look of the test box.
The enclosure is 0.7cuft, but doesn't extend very low, so the bottom end does not follow the target curve. I think porting it would solve that issue to get lower extension to anchor the 18" up front even more. The test box is 0.7cuft I will up the size to a 1cuft net port tuned to 43hz. This box will also accommodate a Dayton HO 12 if the R12 ever fails or dies by my user error.

Porting the R12 should give it more output to keep up with the 18" and the 10FE200 (when they come). More efficiency is always nice.


Ported vs Sealed in winisd:
cdH8XkZ.png
 
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Enclosure plans:
1.05 cuft net tuned to 43hz

Sub and port will be as far forward to the dash as possible. Adding multiple braces to try to minimize any resonance and tactile feel from the enclosure. The port is also split in two so the median will also act like a brace. 24 m/s port velocity.

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After installing the FaitalPro 10FE200s and started to try and level match both sides, I noticed how much louder the left side is compared to the right (playing 100hz -200hz).
I didnt have time to use the mic, but I had to adjust the left -20 to match with the right, which seems much quieter than it should be with these high sensitivity drivers. They're not broken in yet so that may be a factor.
Anyhow, I'm really disliking the door locations for midbass. The left side is difficult to tame.
 
The phase is weird with the door midbasses. With normal polarity, the sound is low as if they're not summing. When flipping the polarity on one side, it gets louder, but all the sound gets focused on the left side only. T/A does nothing to remedy the midbasses focused on the left.
Normal polarity with lower volume seems to be the best balance. At least the sound is coming from the stage. In any situation, the left midbass still needs to a lot of attenuation to not over power the right side. I'm not sure if the units are in db, but the left is -20 and right is 0.
I hope to find out more when I do another tuning session with the mic to get the new midbasses dialed in after break in.
 
I don't know when this started , but for some reason front sub signal was going to the right midbass and the right midbass was going to the the front sub. Double checking the RCA input on the amp both speakers are on and everything looks right. Midbass RCAs to amp's input 1+2. Front sub single RCA out to amp's input 3+4 (with y splitter).

The only way where right midbass and front sub gets the correct signal is:
Midbass RCAs to amp's 1+3 input
Front sub to amp's 2+4 input.

The speaker outputs are as they should with midbasses on channels 1+2 and front sub bridged on 3+4.

WTF?


A- tweeter left
B- tweeter right
C- midrange left
D- midrange right
E- midbass left
F- midbass right
G- front sub
H- sub

Recoil DI1200.4
Channels 1&2 - L+R midbasses
Channels 3&4 - bridged to front sub
 
Did another tuning session with the mic last night. Apparently, both the midbasses have a 200hz null. I crossed the midranges lower to help remedy that.
I prefer to cross the mids higher to be on the safer side and to keep excursion down. All other drivers have safe crossover points (don't need any more blown drivers). Acoustic xover points that is. It's interesting how far off digital and acoustic xovers can be, both frequency and slope.

The left midbass is just about tamed now. Having both midbasses leveled on on the rta just doesn't work in this setup. Left has to be a few dbs lower. Also, the midbass likes to center to the left of center. I can't seem to shift it dead center. The only way that seems to get it centered is if I turn off the left midbass entirely or roll down my windows.

Anyhow, last thing left is to build the ported box for the front sub and redo the whole center console area to accommodate the box and amps.
 
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James Bang said:
I don't know when this started , but for some reason front sub signal was going to the right midbass and the right midbass was going to the the front sub. Double checking the RCA input on the amp both speakers are on and everything looks right. Midbass RCAs to amp's input 1+2. Front sub single RCA out to amp's input 3+4 (with y splitter).

The only way where right midbass and front sub gets the correct signal is:
Midbass RCAs to amp's 1+3 input
Front sub to amp's 2+4 input.

The speaker outputs are as they should with midbasses on channels 1+2 and front sub bridged on 3+4.

WTF?


A- tweeter left
B- tweeter right
C- midrange left
D- midrange right
E- midbass left
F- midbass right
G- front sub
H- sub

Recoil DI1200.4
Channels 1&2 - L+R midbasses
Channels 3&4 - bridged to front
Click to expand...

Side effects of working on the system while tired at night: you mix up speaker wires and think it's an RCA problem.
 
Was able to get some work in on the ported enclosure for the center console sub.

Amps and board removed

j9R068W.jpeg


Ported enclosure will be bolted to this metal frame that once held center console assembly

Piece of wood will help level out the sub box

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Bottom Baffle bolt testing

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Top port piece with access hole to bolt/mount the box
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Top of man hole:
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All but one side showing braces to stiffen up the panels:
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View thru the glory hole

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Now I need to carpet it, reconnect and mount the amps, and tune.
 
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Thanks. I'm hoping all the brace pieces won't have too much of a negative effects on the sub's performance. The sketchup originally had the braces perpendicular to the panels, but I felt it would hinder the air movement too much, so I decided to have them flat against the panels.

With the port, my goal is to have slightly lower extension and lower excursion. I have this constant fear of the R12's cone folding, even though it's only getting 600w. The port will lower the excursion around the port tune, but I think port causes more pressure on cone. In terms of the safety and longevity of the sub, I'm not sure if I'll be better off or worse going ported
 
Baby steps:
Used the smallest straight bit I have to put a false rabbet to prep for carpeting the enclosure. I'll have the back, top and front port area as one piece of carpet to then fold and tuck the excess in the rabbet, then carpet the sides separately.
I have a large roll of charcoal gray carpet which won't really match the rest of the front, but oh well. I might some moulding afterwards, painted black to somewhat help match the rest of the front.

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